I woke up a few times early in the morning as it was already bright as day outside. I was using my Hyperlite Mountain Gear Ultamid 2, and a thin layer of white, semi transparent Dyneema composite fabric doesn’t do much to block the sunlight. When I looked at my clock, it was only 04.30. I went back to sleep, and we got up at around 09.00 instead. We made breakfast, broke camp and went up to the STF cottage to pay for our stay. A couple of hikers had pointed us to the right cabin. The lady who smoked when we arrived sat on the stairs of the nearby cabin, looking at us.
When we got hold of the hut warden, he told us that it was prohibited to camp where we had pitched the tents. The ground, and the hut near it, did not belong to STF, but to the Swedish Nature Conservation Association. We did not have to pay because we did not camp on STF’s land. However, it felt a little embarrassing to have camped where we weren’t allowed to. But since the woman in the hut didn’t say anything, perhaps it didn’t matter. She had heard us talking about paying and looking for hut warden, both during the evening and during the morning, so I suppose she understood that it was a misunderstanding.
Our goal for the day was to get to Skierffe. A mountain with an almost 700 meter vertical wall right down the Rapadalen.
We got up through the woods, which gradually changed from spruce to birch forests, and then disappeared completely as we reached above the timber line.
Fredrik and I have a different hiking philosophies, where I am a lightweight hiker who like to march on at a fairly good pace, and hardly even want to stay for lunch. Fredrik packs quite heavily, likes to stop more often, and wants to spend more time chilling and just enjoying the moment, instead of trying to get a lot of km behind him.
It was important to me to get back home in time, since my wife took the kids to visit her relatives in Greece and I was to pick them up at the airport when they got back. I realized that we would probably not be able to do our planned hike without having to stress it in the end, so we agreed to skip the plan and instead just go where ever we felt like for the day, take a lot of breaks and not care about the mileage. The only goal was to be back at the car at least 10 days later. It was a bit of a change of philosophy for me, but still felt nice. However, it meant that I had packed way too much food. But it still felt ok, although it meant carrying some unnecessary weight.
When we were coming close to the top of Skierffe we decided to start looking for a camp site, even though the clock was only around 14.00. We passed the trail and continued towards the western side of Skierffe. There we found a really good camp site, with flat ground for both of our tents, and a lot of stones to anchor them. We could have saved weight sharing tents, but both Fredrik and I prefer to have our own space.
The camp site had a very nice view over Sareks snow covered peaks. The wind blew hard when we were setting up camp, so we anchored the tents well. I wanted to go to the top of Skierffe, but Fredrik preferred to stay in camp so I went by myself. When I got up at the top there was a young family there with their child in a child carrier.
The view from Skierffe was amazing. It was uphill almost all the way up to the cliff.Then came the long cliff all the way down to Rapa Valley. It was a majestic view, and well worth the effort to get there.
I walked back to the camp and after a while we made dinner.
We went looking for water, and found a little stream a couple of hundred meters away from the camp. Fredrik went to bed quite early, but I laid on the CCF mat and read for a couple of hours. When the wind stopped, it was almost completely quiet around us. It is not often you get that silence when you live in a town. Traffic, sirens, lawnmowers, people talking, airplanes. There’s always noise, and it was refreshing to hear nothing like that.
I went to bed around 21.00, but went out for a while after 22:00 to check out the sunset. By then it had already disappeared behind the mountains, though it was still bright outside.
I went to bed and sleep pretty well. The new way of attaching the quilt has worked very well, and I have not had any drafts, even though I tossed and turned a lot and it was cold in the morning.
7 thoughts on “Sarek in August; Part 2”
I have read both parts and it looks like a nice hike with some nice photos.
Though, I have a question regarding the the camp site. Was that an organized camp site, or you just had to pay for setting up the tent to the land of that woman with the cigarettes?
Also, is it allowed to do wild camping up there? If yes, was any particular reason why you have decided to not go for “wild” camping for one night?
It’s just the areas closest to the STF Mountain Hut that you had to pay to use. Sort of a fee for being able so use the toilets, sauna and stuff like that. It’s the same in Norway near their huts. Other than that it’s free to camp wherever you like. The reason we choose that one the first night was because we arrived late in the night, and didn’t want to hike any further to look for other camp sites. Our plan had been to just hike a couple of hundred meters from the parking lot and then set up camp. But we ended up hiking for over 4 hours since we didn’t find any places with flat ground that were big enough for our tents.
Hi and thanks for the immediate response. It’s clear why you had to pay the fee and if indeed you can make use of WC and sauna, is fair enough to contribute with a small fee.
Thanks again for the answer and looking forward to see more hikes from Scandinavia via your blog.
The Ultamid 2 looks great. I like the pods too. What is your opinion of them after using them on this hike? Great photos by the way.
I really like the pods, although they’re quite expensive. I think they really help to maximize the used space in the pack. One large pod is enough to hold aprox. 1 weeks worth of food.
Yes, I’ve seen the prices. Although they weigh next to nothing, even lighter than my Zpacks food bag. I like the idea that they are made for our packs and that they leave no volume unused.
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